Monday, June 05, 2006

brief moments of brilliance punctuated by long periods of hangdogging

With unrequited calls for partnerage, Bruce and I ventured by our lonesomes to Seneca under threatening skies - arriving only to be assaulted by a fairly full parking lot.

Hoping for the best in terms of crowds, we ventured up Roy Gap with little fanfare and, at least on my part, a very conscious effort to make no mention of the goal of the day. We were both surprised and gratified to see that we were behind only one party on Skyline. After waiting not overly long, I headed up P1 in with my new Splitters, neatly, and thankfully, avoiding the usual CF at the traditional belay.

We had an opportunity to watch someone just fucking waltz up Dufty's Popoff before Bruce made short work of P2 on KC with the usual 3-piece assortment of gear. I motored on up and was soon there.

Below it.

The heretofore unmentioned goal of the day for Brian - Beesting Corner. A climb long-eyed and climbed by Bruce last fall. He assured me I had it in the bag.

I tried to get a little prepped and headed on up.

Place a piece, worry some, move tentatively. Wash, rinse, repeat.

I repeated the cycle to about the 1/2-point until I was so torqued (including one "oh fuck" moment where a stem past an overlap threw me off balance) that I eventually took a hang and then a lower off a .75 Camalot.

I sat at the belay for a bit, trying desperately not to fall into the well of self-doubt I could see right in front of me. I eventually worked my resolve back up and headed back up. Things went better this time. I felt a bit more at home and while the aforementioned cycle hadn't changed, the pace had - at one point Bruce was sure I was going to fire the rest of it in one go.

But alas my arms betrayed me. Seeing what I though to be burly exit moves, I took another hang on a #3 Camalot and tried to de-pump.

Bruce patiently held the other end of the cord. Eventually I got in some gear and fired the final moves with something I like to think was grace.

It wasn't the best style, but I'm certainly proud of the effort and my desire to stick it out. And a 1000 thanks to Bruce for encouraging me - couldn't have done it without him. Looking forward to doing it again w/o all the psychological baggage.

Having accomplished my goal for the day, I suggested we head up to the North Peak so Bruce could have a go at Rox Salt. This time rain was no problem and Bruce just walked the thing. He had the briefest of pauses with some awkward gear to start things off, and then just cruised the rest in no time at all. A great pitch and lead that was only marred by lowering into a tree - much to my delight.

I then headed up Roux, which, while offering easy climbing, was a bit of a sandbag on gear. Not hard, but a little DFU - certainly for a 5.3. It turned into a good pitch though, and I set the anchor so Bruce could tackle Bear's Delight.

He made short work of the odd beginning moves and worked nicely through the top (after some admonishment from me on stemming off the tree). The only downside to the pitch was the inconvenience of the belay that made it easier for Bruce to lower and me to clean on TR than to have both of us at the belay. From the top, we both had [individually] our first view of the South Peak from the North - a unique perspective to be sure. And gratifying as we saw parties at every conceivable belay station.

We rapped and headed down the East Face trail (much less of a hassle when it's not raining btw) and congratulated ourselves on 3 coups for the day.
  1. No issues with crowds
  2. Stayed cool and in the shade on an otherwise hot day
  3. Four new pitches for one or both of us
Ben and Porter, you were missed.

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